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Welcome to the wiki!

This knowledge base is intended to provide support for 3D printing miniatures with FDM printers. This is a community contributed resource of information that will continue to be built and refined as more people provide their own recommendations and experiences. There are also many great resources elsewhere that this site will also link to and reference.

If you are brand new to 3D printing miniatures or to FDM printers, you may want to start with the following resources:

• FDM Miniatures FAQ
• FDM Miniatures Glossary

Guidelines

Due to the rapidly changing 3D printing ecosystem all advise here should be considered editorial based on personal experience and a starting point for anyone wanting to get started 3D printing miniatures with an FDM printer. Some content may be considered best practices and other content may represent advice that has risks and should be used with caution. At any time content on this site may be removed or revised. This site should be considered a family friendly site so things should be kept at a PG rating and questionable content will be removed.

FDM 3D Printing Basics

General printing guidance that should be considered first steps when getting started with FDM 3D printing or when troubleshooting printing issues.

Hardware

0.2mm~ nozzle, you need this if your not a god of printing and want detail.

(Optional) A cool plate for your printer. It will save you filament as you won't need brims or as big brims and can avoid failures due to supports breaking. I'd get this and never look back.

Filaments

Recommended filaments, those to stay away from, and general filament maintenance guidelines.

Egeloo PLA plus and Sunlu PLA 2.0 are badgers recommended filaments. Both work well on overhangs, have good walls, and don't have massive issues when damp, though they still print better when dry.

Calibration

How to calibrate FDM printers & filaments.

Calibrate any major change. Different Nozzle? Calibrate. New filament? Calibrate. Same goes for any major settings changes, if you double the speed, or change layer height/line width calibrate again. It will save you pain later.

When I say calibrate I mean, temp tower, flow rate test, and pressure advance test. They don't have to be perfect, but you need to check they are ok, and fine tune from there.

Tools

General tool recommendations.

Printing Miniatures

Guides on printing miniatures on FDM printers.

Printing Tips & Guides

General printing tips and guides for printing miniatures via FDM.

Layer Height

Start with 0.06mm layers. You may see a lot of advice online for 0.08mm layers, but they struggle due to how bad their overhangs are. 0.06mm is not a lot slower, but the quality increase along with better overhang performance I believe it worth it.

If your happy with your profile at 0.06mm, then you can try lower. But take it slow, and things will start to get strange. Badger thinks 0.05mm profiles are the perfect balance of speed/quality/workability as 0.04mm profiles often crash slicers and take so long to slice and print.

Model Orientation

One of the first decisions you make when preparing a model for printing is what the orientation will be. It may be tempting to orient it vertically, with its feet on the ground, but this will often have suboptimal results. Instead, you will generally orient the model so that it is leaned back. This allows you to take advantage of the greater detail on the Z axis and to have supports on the back of the model, so any support scarring is less noticeable (all supports leave at least a little scarring).

Other considerations are to minimize the amount of supports needed, to minimize the appearance of layer lines, and to align the layers for stronger parts.

If you are unsure of how you should orient your model and it came with a pre-supported file, you can check that file for the orientation. Note that pre-supported files are generally not suitable for FDM printers since the supports are designed for resin printing.

Supports

How you support your model is a major factor for how well your print will turn out. FDM printers cannot print directly onto thin air, so anything with enough of an overhang will need supports. Below you will find some supports settings that you can use:

• timnolte supports v5 (current)
• timnolte supports v4

Common questions:

• What about the Resin2FDM tool?
  • The Resin2FDM tool is a plugin for Blender that allows you to convert resin supports (on pre-supported files) so that they work with FDM printers. However, our experience has been that well-tuned tree supports (see the links above) provide better results with faster print times. This is because resin printing has different support requirements than FDM printers. Since the tool works by thickening the supports so that the FDM slicer can pick them up, you will need to cut most of them to free the model, which creates additional scarring, and with the density of supports generated, it is easy to accidentally cut part of the model.
• How does this differ from the Fat Dragon Games (FDG) support settings?
  • Since FDG only does support-free models their settings do not have optimized settings for supports.

Advice for making your own supports

Concentric support interface and two interface layers allows the supports to create good base for critical overhangs.

z distance wants to be around 0.04 plus your layer height. A rough guide to give you a starting point for minis. Keep in mind closer can sometimes be easier to remove, but this should already be quite tight compared to other advice.

I recommend hybrid, slim or strong trees.

You want small support branch diameter. ideally around 1mm, but increase it a little if you have generation issues.

I recommend one wall, and rectilinear base pattern of around 2-3mm

Manually paint on supports to tips of critical overhangs, often supports won't generate as well as they could there, and its critical you don't have failures on these tips.

Cooling Towers

When printing models with thin sections at the top (think a model with a sword held vertically above their head), a layer of filament may not have time to cool before another layer is added. This can result in the the print head pulling the previous layer out of alignment. The easiest solution to this is a cooling tower. In essence, a cooling tower is a sacrificial object that forces the print head to do something else long enough for the layer to cool. The general process is:

1. In your slicer, add a generic box object (often you can do this by right clicking and selecting “add object” or something similar from the context menu).
2. Resize the box so that its X and Y dimensions are 5mm, and so that it is the same height as your model. A quick way to set the height is to move it so that it overlaps the model and resize the height until the top of the model no longer pokes through.
3. Set the infill for the box to 0%. Make sure that you are only adjusting the infill for the box, not the model. This is often done by right clicking on the box and selecting “infill” from the context menu.
4. Set the walls and top and bottom perimeters to 1 loop/layer. Again, make sure that you are adjusting only the settings for the box, not the model. This is often done by choosing the walls/perimeters option from the context menu for the box.

Note that if you are printing multiple models and using the “print by object” setting in your slicer, you will need to create and join a cooling tower for each model so that the cooling tower doesn’t print totally separately (which would defeat the purpose). However, if you are not using “print by object”, the additional models may act as cooling towers (though the chances of print failure go up).

It may seem that this is a waste of filament and time, but in reality it uses very little filament (due to being the thinnest possible shell with no infill) and adds a negligible amount of time to the print.

Printing Multiple Models

It may be tempting to fill a print sheet with models, but this has the major drawback that if one model fails, it will almost always ruin the rest of the sheet. Since FDM printing tends to be slow, this can mean that you have a 10+ hour print fail at 90% completion.

A much better approach is to use the “print by object” setting in your slicer. This setting allows the slicer to calculate where to position the models on the sheet so that it can print one, then move and print another, and so on. Since it has to leave sufficient room for the print head, this will greatly reduce the capacity of a print sheet, but the benefit is that if one model has a failure, it won’t impact the previously printed models (and maybe not ever the subsequent models).

Model Creators

FDM Miniatures

Recommended model creators specifically designed for FDM printing, and any tips for printing their models.

• Arbiter Miniatures

Non-FDM Miniatures

Model creators that are not specifically designed for FDM printing, and any tips for attempting to print their models.

• One Page Rules

Printing Terrain

Guides on printing terrain on FDM printers.

Printer Model Tips

General guidelines and tips for specific FDM printers.

Model Prints Galleries

A gallery of prints done on FDM printers.

• Miniatures
• Terrain